TeaGschwender makes great claims for this tea, which I am still trying to validate. It is light, and the lack of bitterness allows the fruity/nutty flavors to come through, but I’m still partial to the Mangalam Estate teas, maybe because I feel they have a greater foundation. I’m not sure Iike the direction toward which many Assams and Darjeelings are moving—striving for delicacy on the top notes, while sacrificing body in the process. Still, in the scheme of things, this is a satisfying Assam.
Even our vaunted Assam Mokalbari is undone by this newcomer, a sophisticated selection serving notice that perfection is always a possibility. Generous malted notes of barley and an ale-like fruity depth lead the way, reinforced by a cast of notes ranging from caramel to Brazil nuts. Astringency in just the right measure ensures balance on your palate. An indisputable, unforgettable tour de force.